This stroke requires some flexibiltiy at the midsection. In it's simplest form it can be used to move your boat sideways towards a dock, or rafted paddlers. I rarely if ever use the stroke this way. I am going to illustrate the standard draw, then the skulling draw. I find the the skulling draw more useful than the standard draw, but what the standard draw does is set you up for more advanced versions - The hanging draw in particular which is a great way to turn your boat while moving. But first the standard and skulling.
Standard. Turn your body as for to the left side as you can, with a goal of 90º. Place the blade in the water with the paddle as vertical as you can - a note for the video, I have short arms and I am not great at gettng the paddle vertical, maybe this is why I prefer the skulling draw -with the power face towards you. Your left hand is low and your right hand is high. Your right hand should be open as it is just acting as a lever for your bottom hand. Flick your wrist, so the blade in the water is no longer facing you, but angled away at 90º and slice the blade away from you. When the blade is as far away from you as possible, flick your wrist back and draw the paddle to your boat. If you can edge to the right side, this will free the boat to move easier towards the blade. When the Blade is back to the side of your boat repeat.
Skulling. The skulling draw is my preferrd static draw. This one works better with a slight angle in the shaft instead of pure vertical. Instead of drawing the paddle towards you, you are going to start with the paddle extended, lock your arms and draw the paddle side to side with body rotation. Like smearing peanut butter on a slice of bread. The blade should be angled somewhere between flat to the boat, and perpendicular to the boat. The greater the angle the more effort it will take, but you will also generate more movement. At the end of each rotation you have to flick the angle the other direction.
Sorry about the fog on the lens.